Day 3

The panels spent the night clamped up in the shop, and considering I used a ton of glue, like my old boss would say,"They ain't goin' NOWHERE"!

Next I belt sanded the backs (or inside) of the panels. I only did the backs at this point because I will sand the outside of the cabinet once it is assembled. This way I can sand the panel joints and finger joints at the same time.




After sanding the backs it was time for the moment of truth. If the staggers in my glue ups were out of square, too deep, or too shallow, I'd have a pile of really pretty firewood.

Luckily, the first dry fit (pictured above) was perfect!!! WHEW!!!


Here are the complete carcasses. The amp isn't installed yet, just laid it in for the picture.


Now, I need to make the speaker baffle, and the amp face plate.

First, the baffle. I cut a piece of 5/8" china birch plywood to the inside dimensions of the speaker cabinet, less 1/8" on all for sides. This will allow it to be snug when I add the grill cloth later. Then, I laid out and cut out the speakers from the baffle.


After the holes were cut out, I trimmed the out the front of the baffle with some cherry I ripped down to 1". This will be the surface that the speaker cloth wraps around and will create a gap between the baffle and the cloth. I routed the outside edge of this cherry with a 1/4" roundover bit, so there won't be any sharp edges to damage the cloth.

Here's what the cabinet looks like with the baffle in place.





The baffle is inserted from the front and held in place by cleats that are glued and screwed to the inside of the cabinet but only screwed to the baffle. This will make the baffle very secure, but also removable.


Next, the amp head face plate.

I decided to glue up the face plate using only cherry, so the face wasn't to busy. I glued up a cherry panel that was slightly bigger than the opening. Then I sanded it smooth and cut it down to size. Next, I laid out the openings, one for the amp controls, and one where speaker cloth will eventually go.




Once I sanded it smooth and got the cutouts just like I wanted, I planed it down to 1/2" thickness and secured it to the amp head cabinet with cleats that are glued and screwed to the cabinet, but only screwed to the face plate so that it can be removed if necessary.


The first coat of tung oil was the next step. Now I'm waiting on the accessories: Handle, feet, metal corners, wiring harness, input jack, and grill cloth, which were ordered from www.mojomusicalsupply.com.

I'll post again when the accessories get in!

Day 2

Today, I was at "RH Customs" cabinet shop in Marion, Texas. It was kind of nice to be back there. It is where I spent about two years building custom cabinetry and trim work.

First, I got everything cut to length for the speaker cabinet, amp head cabinet, amp head face plate, and all bracing. Then I started drilling all the pocket holes.





Here are all the panels drilled and ready to be glued. The pocket holes will be on the inside of the finished cabinets, so don't worry...


Next, I glued up each panel. You can sort of see in the pictures that they are staggered. This is what will create the "finger joints" later. This is a tedious way to glue up panels, and could be disastrous if it isn't done perfectly. But hopefully will create an awesome look when complete.


I'll be back at the shop tomorrow and will, hopefully be able to complete the first dry fit!

Day 1

The Lancaster Amp (Brutis 15) chassis arrived Tuesday. It is beautiful! (www.lancasteramps.com) (www.detailaudio.com) I ordered some Cherry and Maple rough board footage, and it arrived Tuesday as well! Wednesday, after work, I was able to rip and plane it down to 1-15/16" stock. Tomorrow, it will need to be: cut to length, drilled for pocket screws, and glued up.